Fendi Autumn Winter 2021

Kim Jones unveiled his first ready to wear collection for Fendi on Wednesday. It took Fendi a while to fill the creative direction position after the passing of Karl Lagerfeld. He held the position for 54 years and was responsible for many memorable designs such as the famous FF logo.

The Fendi family has always had a significant role in the brand. Silvia Fendi is currently the creative director of accessories, menswear, and children at Fendi. Kim Jones wanted to celebrate the women of Fendi and had a very luxurious, yet practical idea for his debut collection.

The color palette is neutral and minimal. We also spot his experience in menswear by the clean lines and tailored looks. That seems to be his way of communicating luxury. Instead of elaborate silhouettes and over the top designs, he brings luxury with his perfectly tailored fits and high quality fabrics. Some of the noticeable elements in his silhouettes are the bell sleeves, tailored pieces, and plunging necklines.

The collection is strong, feminine, and flattering. Lightweight and soft fabrics accompanied with tailored coats create a pleasant contrast. And even though Kim Jones is not very pro fur, he kept up with Fendi’s “fun fur” legacy and used it in some of his looks. Including an upcycled fox fur coat. Maybe this is a start towards a fur free Fendi. A direction that many brands are taking.

He studied Fendi and had his own interpretations of the brand and its history. He paid homage to Karl Lagerfeld in many ways including the use of the double F logo. Models walked through F shaped glass frames. And some looks, like the tights, included the monogram pattern.

He created a very practical collection. The neutral colors, comfortable silhouettes, and high quality fabrics create sustainable choices that is very relevant in today’s market. Kim Jones paid attention to the customers’ needs alongside Fendi’s heritage and history. There is however a missed opportunity. Fendi had started to cast plus size models in the previous seasons but none were included in this year’s collection. This can be considered a step back in the industry since brands are starting to include more sizes not the other way around.

All in all this debut collection was successful. He had big shoes to fill but instead, he did things his own way and managed to unveil a fresh take whilst maintaining the brand’s integrity. It is both intriguing and exciting to see what he is going to create next.

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